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How to Make Custom-Fit Bras & Lingerie
by Don McCunn

Table of Contents

Introduction
Materials and Supplies
Bikini Tops
Creating the Basic Bikini Top
Sewing a Trial Bikini Top
Adding a Dart to a Bikini Top
Sewing Darts and Seams
Bikini Top Designs
Sewing Basics
Gathered Bikini Top
Corded Bikini Top
Tied Bikini Tops
The Bikini Bra
Draping a Princess Seam Bikini Top
Adding a Skirt to the Bikini Top
Bikini Top Dress
Baby Doll Nightgown
Bikini Briefs & Thongs
Creating the Basic Bikini Briefs
Corded Bikini Briefs
Elastic & Fashion Tied Bikini Briefs
Ring Bikini Briefs
Thongs
Fitted Briefs
Fitted Briefs Design Variations
Fitted Briefs Design Process
Three-Piece Fitted Briefs
Fitted Skirt Pattern for Briefs
Adding Fullness to Skirt Patterns
Bandeau Tops & Dresses
The Bandeau Top Design Process
Basic Bandeau Top
Bandeau With Skirt
Bust Sling Bras
Basic Bust Sling Bra
Create the Bust Sling Mold
Create a Do-It-Yourself Mold
Create the Paper Pattern
Create and Fit a Muslin Mock-Up
Bust Sling Bra Variations
The Double-Band Bust Sling Bra
The X-Back Bust Sling Bra
Princess Seam Variations


Bust Sling Bra Designs
Hybrid Bust Sling Bra
Racerback Bust Sling Bra
Zipper-Front Bust Sling Bra
Bust Sling Nursing Bra
Bust Sling Garment Designs
A Bust Sling Swimsuit Top
Bust Sling Dress
Bust Sling Gown
Bust Sling Dream Shaper
Leotards and One-Piece Swimsuits
Conventional Bras
An Overview of the Process
Design Considerations
Parts of a Conventional Bra
Reference Lines
Factors that Affect the Fit
Materials and Tools
Underwires
Creating a Bra Sloper Mold
Creating a Mold Over a Bra
Creating a Mold Over the Body
Creating a Mold Using Press'n Seal
Creating a Bra Sloper from a Mold
Sewing for a Trial Fitting
Sewing a Muslin Sloper for Fitting
Creating a Pattern for a Bra Design
Sample Bra Specification Sheet
Sewing the Bra
Bra Design Variations
Bra Design Examples
Bra Specification Sheet
Athletic Bras
Creating a Mold Using Press'n Seal
Using the Mold for a Master Pattern
Creating an Athletic Bra Design
Sewing Athletic Bras
Designing a Wedding Dress
Design Choices
Creating a Hoop Petticoat
Creating an A-Line Wedding Dress
Creating a Trumpet Style Dress
Appendix
Lingerie Fabric & Basic Terminology
Mini-Me Dress Form
Fabric Testing
Index


Copyright © 2017 by Donald H. McCunn